- Top-Down Long-Arm Feather
After practicing this a few times, something began to stick out that really bugged me. I'll give you a hint, look a t the red lines drawn in Step 3. The angles of the plumes are not the same. It didn't matter how hard I tried, these angles did not match the top and bottom passes. It was okay for a beginner...but once it bugged me, I had to try a new method. This one wasn't cooperating with my motor skills. Also, my plumes were rather straight and boring-looking, not curvy.
- Bottom-Up Long-Arm Feather
|For me, this basic plume shape has a better curve to it. As you recall from last week, this is the same shape we use to start our hook-feathers.|
If you look at the angle drawn in red, they're matching up nicely at about 90 degrees. Not flat and not mis-matched.
Now...for some fun. Let's use it! Here's how I used this bottom-up long-arm feather in combination with some continuous curve quilting on my Moda BakeShop feature Quilting Bee Sampler. I am using the Crescent Moon Ruler by Ronda Beyer, manufactured and purchased from Quilter's Rule.
|Step One: Quilt the bottom arc of the cross-hatching to ground it, then rotated the ruler 90 degrees and quilt the other bottom arc of the cross hatching. This defines the cross-hatching space and divides it from the feather space.|
|Step Two: Use the arc and grid-lines on it to evenly space all arcs, traveling in the ditch as necessary. Then rotate 90 dgrees to complete the other arc half.|
|Here, both sides of the cross-hatching are complete. Travel in the ditch to reach where we need to quilt the long-arm feathers. I went straight down so I could do my feathers from the bottom-up.|
|All done! I like to "watch" the curve of the previous plume so that I don't accidentally quilt over the top of it.|
Here are some other examples: